Difference between revisions of "Arduino Socket"
Russ hensel (talk | contribs) (Created page with "= Introduction = There is an old tradition in electronics, if a part is expensive or inclined to blow, make it replaceable by putting it in a socket. Sometimes this goes to...") |
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Note that this is an article started by Russ Hensel, see "http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=Russ_hensel#About My Articles" '''About My Articles''' | Note that this is an article started by Russ Hensel, see "http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=Russ_hensel#About My Articles" '''About My Articles''' | ||
| + | An almost identical write up of this topic can be found at: [[https://www.instructables.com/id/Socket-to-Your-Arduino/ Socket to Your Arduino: 6 Steps (with Pictures)]] | ||
= Parts = | = Parts = | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Boards == | ||
| + | In this case I am using stripboard, but any PCB board with .1 inch spacing should be good. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Sboard1.JPG|400px]] [[Image:Sboard2.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Arduino == | ||
| + | |||
| + | I am using a nano, but there are may Arduinos with this header on the bottom style. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Nano.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Header == | ||
| + | |||
| + | This is what female header strip looks like: | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Fheader.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | Cut it with a fine tooth saw. I cut through the middle of a pin which is sacrificed. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Cut header.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Solder == | ||
| + | |||
| + | First tack solder the two end pins and adjust to make sure header is straight and all the way in. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Tack.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | Finish soldering: | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Solder.JPG|400px]] [[Image:Solder dun.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Done == | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Mont it.JPG|400px]] [[Image:Finished0.JPG|400px]] [[Image:Finished1.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | <!--------------start hidden ------------------ | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:x.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Finished1.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:Finished0.JPG|400px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | <!-------------- end hidden ---------------------> | ||
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[[Category:Arduino/RaspberryPi]] | [[Category:Arduino/RaspberryPi]] | ||
Latest revision as of 10:12, 3 February 2018
Introduction[edit]
There is an old tradition in electronics, if a part is expensive or inclined to blow, make it replaceable by putting it in a socket. Sometimes this goes too far as with final circuits that are still on a proto board where everything is in a socket. But if we are using small arduinos like the nano we more or less treat them as a component and putting them in a socket is a good idea. As far as I know sockets for these parts are not made, and the pins on an arduino are not really the normal pins for sockets. However we can make what we need on a strip board or PCB by using 2 rows of female headers. Pictures tell the rest of the story.
Note that this is an article started by Russ Hensel, see "http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=Russ_hensel#About My Articles" About My Articles
An almost identical write up of this topic can be found at: [Socket to Your Arduino: 6 Steps (with Pictures)]
Parts[edit]
Boards[edit]
In this case I am using stripboard, but any PCB board with .1 inch spacing should be good.
Arduino[edit]
I am using a nano, but there are may Arduinos with this header on the bottom style.
Header[edit]
This is what female header strip looks like:
Cut it with a fine tooth saw. I cut through the middle of a pin which is sacrificed.
Solder[edit]
First tack solder the two end pins and adjust to make sure header is straight and all the way in.
Finish soldering:
Done[edit]
