Difference between revisions of "Salvage Parts and Sources"
Russ hensel (talk | contribs) (New page: Another page in early construction by russ_hensel, this attribution will be removed when I am "finished" with the page. == Parts Where to Find == {| class="wikitable" |-valign="top" ...) |
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== Salvage Techniques == | == Salvage Techniques == | ||
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+ | Use a propane torch to salvage components from printed circuit boards ( from russ_hensel ). | ||
+ | |||
+ | First, this technique can be dangerous, in addition to possible burning yourself or burning your house down the components can emit dangerous fumes including fumes from the lead solder. Make sure you are operating carefully in a very well ventilated ( perhaps outdoor ) area. If you are not an adult have an adult approve of your procedure. | ||
+ | |||
+ | I use a propane touch with about a liter container of propane often used for plumbing work. I take the board and clamp it vertically in a vise. The torch is adjusted for about a 1 inch flame. Play the flame over the component leads while pulling on the component with a pair of pliers ( have several sizes available ). Work the component out and drop in a box. Move on to the next components. Some components can be pulled out with your fingers if you do not mind occasional burns, some can be pull out with your fingers but will burn you almost every time. If a component has heavy duty leads and light duty leads ( as some transistors that are connected to heat sinks do ) heat the heavy duty leads first. If the components has much plastic near the board ( for example ) headers, you may destroy the part. Practice will improve your technique. Keep your head out of the fumes. Try not to set the board on fire too often. When you do make sure you put it out. Do not leave the site of the work until the boards are cool. Even surface mount components can be removed, apply heat from the side away from the component, this will often ignite the board. This technique is at least an order of magnitude faster than using a soldering iron. Some people replace the torch with a paint removing heat gun, I have tried this but like the torch better. | ||
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+ | Do the parts work after heating this way: for me almost always. |
Revision as of 13:59, 26 January 2008
Another page in early construction by russ_hensel, this attribution will be removed when I am "finished" with the page.
Parts -- Where to Find Them
What | Useful ( one persons opinion ) | Where |
---|---|---|
Beeper |
Yes |
|
Caps: Electrolytic |
Yes |
|
Case |
Can be very useful, may want to replace or overlay the front panel. Sometimes use a different side of the case as a new front. |
|
Crystals |
Are the frequencies useful, can you figure out how to drive them? |
|
|
Yes |
Many different devices. |
Diodes: Small Signal |
Usually have leads that are so short that they are not worth bothering with |
|
what |
Yes |
Headers and Jumpers Headers can be quite useful, the first 10 or so jumpers may be useful. Computer mother boards. |
Fans: Small |
Yes |
|
Heat Sinks |
Yes |
|
Infra Red Receiver Useful for IR remote control projects. Any equipment with with a remote control |
Yes |
|
Jacks: RCA Phono |
Yes |
Audio equipment and many computer mother boards. |
what |
Yes |
|
what |
Yes |
|
Sources -- What Can You Get Out Of Them
Salvage Techniques
Use a propane torch to salvage components from printed circuit boards ( from russ_hensel ).
First, this technique can be dangerous, in addition to possible burning yourself or burning your house down the components can emit dangerous fumes including fumes from the lead solder. Make sure you are operating carefully in a very well ventilated ( perhaps outdoor ) area. If you are not an adult have an adult approve of your procedure.
I use a propane touch with about a liter container of propane often used for plumbing work. I take the board and clamp it vertically in a vise. The torch is adjusted for about a 1 inch flame. Play the flame over the component leads while pulling on the component with a pair of pliers ( have several sizes available ). Work the component out and drop in a box. Move on to the next components. Some components can be pulled out with your fingers if you do not mind occasional burns, some can be pull out with your fingers but will burn you almost every time. If a component has heavy duty leads and light duty leads ( as some transistors that are connected to heat sinks do ) heat the heavy duty leads first. If the components has much plastic near the board ( for example ) headers, you may destroy the part. Practice will improve your technique. Keep your head out of the fumes. Try not to set the board on fire too often. When you do make sure you put it out. Do not leave the site of the work until the boards are cool. Even surface mount components can be removed, apply heat from the side away from the component, this will often ignite the board. This technique is at least an order of magnitude faster than using a soldering iron. Some people replace the torch with a paint removing heat gun, I have tried this but like the torch better.
Do the parts work after heating this way: for me almost always.